James Beard Award finalist Greg Collier has taken over as executive chef at Fine & Fettle, a modest hotel lobby restaurant in Charlotte’s SouthPark neighborhood. Despite his arrival in October generating buzz among local food enthusiasts, the dining room stood empty on a recent Friday night, save for a few takeout orders. This quiet scene underscores broader challenges in the restaurant industry even as Collier refocuses on his strengths.
Navigating Closures and Seeking Stability
Collier’s path to Fine & Fettle follows closures of his previous ventures amid economic pressures and staffing issues. His Camp North End spot, Leah & Louise, shut down in 2024, with plans for relocation yet to materialize. Similarly, 3rd & Fernwood in Midtown closed due to financial woes, described by Collier as an “everyone” restaurant that struggled to connect.
Collier cited the economy as a key factor, telling CharlotteFive that he and his wife Subrina saw “the writing on the wall” at Leah & Louise. The hotel partnership offers what independent operations lacked: financial and organizational backing. This setup allows him to prioritize food, service, and drinks without the burdens that sank his prior spots.
Reviving Southern Roots Through Signature Dishes
Since late November, Collier has previewed new menu items on Instagram, signaling a return to the Southern cuisine that earned his James Beard nod. Standouts include grilled cauliflower seasoned like everything bagel mix and drizzled with coffee molasses—sweet, crunchy, tangy, and deeply satisfying, echoing the iconic cabbage from Leah & Louise.
The $35 Hoppin’ John justifies its price through intensive preparation: field peas, red rice, and tender oxtail slow-cooked into richness, brightened by pickled okra. Breakfast elevates beyond typical hotel fare, with umami-packed mushroom toast and light, toasted buttermilk biscuits demanding a black coffee chaser.
Building for the Future in a Tough Landscape
Collier emphasizes kitchen talent development and partnerships with local farms like Freshlist for ingredients. Hotel banquets provide steady business, mitigating the lobby location’s drawbacks. These elements position Fine & Fettle as more than adequate— a showcase for Collier’s skills amid Charlotte’s volatile dining scene.
The real measure of a restaurant lies in the stories crafted between openings and closings. Collier’s efforts here promise enduring appeal, drawing diners to savor vegetables as blockbusters and stews as labors of love.
