James Beard Award finalist Greg Collier has taken over as executive chef at Fine & Fettle, transforming the modest hotel lobby restaurant in Charlotte's Canopy by Hilton SouthPark into a destination for elevated Southern cuisine. Despite recent closures of his previous ventures amid economic pressures and staffing issues, Collier's new menu draws crowds through previews on Instagram and delivers on bold flavors. This shift highlights a chef's pivot to stability while preserving his signature style.
Navigating Closures and a Return to Roots
Collier's path to Fine & Fettle follows the shuttering of two key projects. His wife Subrina's Leah & Louise at Camp North End closed in 2024, with plans for relocation stalled. Then 3rd & Fernwood in Midtown succumbed to financial troubles and staff shortages. Collier described 3rd & Fernwood as an "everyone" restaurant that failed to gain traction, while economic signals prompted the Leah & Louise exit. These closures reflect broader challenges in the restaurant industry, where high operational costs and labor gaps force even acclaimed chefs to adapt. Collier sought a hotel partnership for its financial and organizational backing, allowing focus on food, service, and drinks without sole ownership burdens.
Dishes That Echo Past Triumphs
The menu channels the Southern ingenuity that earned Collier James Beard recognition. Grilled cauliflower arrives topped with everything-bagel-style seasoning and coffee molasses, blending sweet crunch, tang, and depth—reminiscent of the craveable cabbage from Leah & Louise. Hoppin' John, priced at $35, justifies its cost through field peas, red rice, slow-cooked oxtail, and pickled okra that cuts through the richness. Breakfast elevates beyond typical hotel fare: mushroom toast delivers intense umami, while buttermilk biscuits emerge light, sliced, and toasted. These plates showcase labor-intensive techniques rooted in Southern tradition, updated with precise seasoning and local sourcing from suppliers like Freshlist.
Hotel Location Meets Banquet Potential
Tucked in a hotel lobby, Fine & Fettle once drew sparse crowds, including a recent empty Friday night save for takeout guests. Collier dismisses location concerns, citing strong banquet business that sustains operations. His emphasis on kitchen talent development and farm partnerships positions the spot for longevity. Beyond openings and closings, a restaurant's essence lies in the chef's ongoing narrative—crafted dishes that linger in memory. Fine & Fettle now exceeds its name, offering compelling reasons for Charlotte diners to fill those seats.
