James Beard Award finalist Greg Collier has taken over as executive chef at Fine & Fettle, transforming the hotel lobby restaurant in Charlotte's Canopy by Hilton SouthPark into a showcase for his signature Southern cooking. Despite recent closures of his previous ventures amid economic pressures and staffing issues, Collier's new menu delivers standout dishes that recapture the bold flavors that earned him national acclaim. On a recent Friday night, the dining room sat nearly empty, a stark contrast to the quality now emerging from the kitchen.
Navigating Closures and a Pivot to Stability
Collier's path to Fine & Fettle follows the shuttering of two Charlotte favorites: Leah & Louise at Camp North End in 2024 and 3rd & Fernwood in Midtown. He attributed Leah & Louise's closure to economic warning signs, while 3rd & Fernwood, designed as an accessible "everyone" spot, faltered under financial strain and staff shortages. These setbacks highlight broader challenges in the restaurant industry, where rising costs and labor gaps force even acclaimed chefs to adapt. Collier sought a hotel partnership for its organizational backing, allowing him to prioritize food, service, and drinks without sole financial burden. Since October, he has helmed the kitchen, with full menu previews rolling out by late November.
Signature Dishes Signal a Southern Homecoming
Collier's updates return to the vegetable-forward Southern cuisine that defined his James Beard semifinalist run. The grilled cauliflower, seasoned like everything bagel topping and finished with coffee molasses, evokes the craveable cabbage from Leah & Louise—sweet, crunchy, tangy, and deeply satisfying. Hoppin' John anchors the dinner menu at $35, featuring field peas, red rice, and slow-cooked oxtail for unctuous richness, brightened by pickled okra. Breakfast elevates beyond typical hotel fare: mushroom toast delivers intense umami, best with black coffee, while the light buttermilk biscuit arrives toasted and halved. These plates demonstrate Collier's skill in elevating humble ingredients through technique and local sourcing, now from Freshlist farms.
Beyond Openings: The Enduring Chef's Narrative
A restaurant's true measure lies in the stories its chef crafts amid flux, not just survival. Collier emphasizes kitchen talent development and partnerships with area growers, fostering resilience in Charlotte's competitive scene. Hotel lobbies often host banquets that sustain operations, mitigating the SouthPark location's drawbacks. Fine & Fettle now exceeds its "fine" name, offering compelling reasons for diners to fill those seats on busy nights. Collier's focus promises sustained excellence, proving that strategic reinvention sustains culinary vision.
